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Central Canada · Ontario
Canada's capital — gothic spires, a frozen canal, and small-town charm.
A portrait of Ottawa
Ottawa is the national capital where neo-gothic Parliament buildings rise above the Ottawa River, the world's largest skating rink threads through downtown each winter, and bilingual neighbourhoods spill into a vibrant ByWard Market food scene.
Field notes
On the canal
When the ice is in, Ottawans commute on blades. Rent skates at Dow's Lake, glide 7.8 km past Parliament, and warm up with a BeaverTail pastry at one of the canal-side huts. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a transit corridor at the same time.
ByWard nights
Start with oysters at Whalesbone, work through small plates at Riviera on Sparks, end the night at Copper Spirits & Sights with the Parliament dome lit up beyond the glass. The next morning: a peameal-bacon sandwich at the Market.
Across the river
Cross the Alexandra Bridge into Québec and you're 20 minutes from the Champlain Lookout, a sheer escarpment over the Ottawa Valley. October colour here rivals any New England drive — and you can be back downtown for dinner.
On the map
A tour through the icons and the under-the-radar corners — laid out the way a local would walk you through.
Parliament Hill
Neo-gothic seat of government with daily Changing of the Guard.
Rideau Canal
UNESCO waterway; 7.8 km skateway in winter, paddling in summer.
ByWard Market
Open-air market, BeaverTails, and 200+ restaurants in five blocks.
National Gallery
Maman the giant spider guards a glass-roofed crystal palace of art.
Gatineau Park
361 km² of lakes and ridgelines, 15 minutes from Parliament.
Canadian Museum of History
Douglas Cardinal's sweeping curves across the river in Gatineau.
Year-round
Spring
One million tulips bloom in May — Canada's largest tulip festival.
Summer
Canada Day on the Hill, jazz on the canal, evening sound-and-light show.
Autumn
Gatineau Park sugar maples flame red against limestone.
Winter
Winterlude, ice sculptures, and the world's longest skating rink.
Insider tips
Free admission to most national museums after 5 p.m. on Thursdays.
Walk the Sussex Drive embassies for an architectural tour by stealth.
Cross to Aylmer in Gatineau for a cheaper, lakeside take on dinner.
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