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North Coast · British Columbia
The misty archipelago at the edge of the continent.
A portrait of Haida Gwaii
Once called the Queen Charlotte Islands, Haida Gwaii is a 150-island archipelago off BC's north coast, ancestral home of the Haida Nation. Old-growth rainforest, abandoned village sites, and the world's only Haida-co-managed national park reserve make it one of Canada's most singular journeys.
Field notes
Heritage
Gwaii Haanas Watchmen — Haida guardians — host visitors at five abandoned village sites. Standing before the cedar poles at SGang Gwaay, slowly returning to the forest by Haida design, is one of Canada's most profound experiences.
On the map
A tour through the icons and the under-the-radar corners — laid out the way a local would walk you through.
Haida Heritage Centre
Six monumental longhouses at Kay Llnagaay — start every Haida Gwaii visit here.
Gwaii Haanas
Co-managed park reserve covering the southern islands; only by boat, plane, or kayak.
SGang Gwaay
UNESCO World Heritage village of weathered mortuary poles on Anthony Island.
Tow Hill
Volcanic plug above Naikoon's wild beach at the north end of Graham Island.
Year-round
Spring
Whales pass close to shore; long daylight begins.
Summer
Calmest seas, longest days, and all Watchmen sites are open.
Autumn
Salmon spawn, mushroom foraging, and quiet beaches.
Winter
Storm watching at Tow Hill; most lodges close.
Insider tips
Take the Gwaii Haanas orientation in Skidegate before any park visit — required and excellent.
Rent a vehicle in advance; supply is tight on the islands.
Crab cakes at Queen B's in Queen Charlotte; chowder at the Skidegate Co-op.
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